Home Hair highlights Transition to gray hair: the pro colourist’s guide

Transition to gray hair: the pro colourist’s guide


For a slower transition over time, you can also lighten your base over multiple sessions. “Every four to six weeks, your colorist can lighten the formula by a quarter to a half level, which can take up to a year or more,” says Rez. “While the previously darker hair towards the ends of the hair length fades, a shine to combat the brass of the faded ends will help make this process easier on the eye. Meanwhile, complementary highlights can also be woven into the gray to add dimension and vibrancy.

“Glamor Streaks” will be your best friend

When a client is really going gray-haired, Martin will pitch the idea of ​​adding more “glamorous strands” around the face to Bancroft or Susan Sontag. “These are beautiful silver pieces that frame the face that make the color more impactful and brighten up the face,” he explains. “It’s very easy to maintain and instead of the client having to come in every few weeks, she can come in every three to four months to touch it up.”

Maintaining color between visits is essential

On average, returning silvery-haired clients, even if they’ve grown their gray naturally, should come back to the salon at least every three to four months for toning / shine cuts and treatments, which are used to counteract the condition. unwanted yellow or yellowing. orange tones on bleached hair. “They can bring a dull and / or yellowed gray color back to life in five to 15 minutes… I’m not kidding. Whether you’re all white, made the slow transition from lightening the base formula, or refueled in a few days sitting down, a gloss can take your hair to the next level ” , explains Rez, adding that your colourist can also refresh or warm up your entire look to suit your preferences.

Shu Uemura Yūbi Blonde Violet Anti-Brass Shampoo for Blonde Hair

Kérastase Bain Ultra-Violet Violet Shampoo

R + Co Sunset Blvd Blond Shampoo

Clairol Shimmer Lights Violet Shampoo for blond and silver hair

To further protect the color between appointments, Martin recommends his clients eliminate hot tools, avoid sun exposure and chlorine as this makes hair more brassy, ​​and only shampoo. once a week, which will speed up hair discoloration. And just like you should with blonde hair, silver hair of all shades should be cleaned with a purple-toned shampoo that combats copper highlights and corrects colors to restore their cooler, more neutral hue. Martin and Rez are both fans of Redken’s Color Extend line, which offers specific shampoos in purple and silver. Martin also recommends Schwarzkopf’s Goodbye Yellow and Fanola’s No Yellow formulas. Deep conditioning treatments designed specifically for colored hair are also essential, and you might want to consider a purple-toned formula like Better Not Younger’s Silver Lining Mask.

Better Not Younger Silver Lining Purple Butter Mask

Oribe Silverati Illuminating Treatment Mask

Overtone Vibrant Silver Color Conditioner

K18 Leave-In Molecular Repairing Hair Mask

Style your new gray with care and confidence is key

Hot styling should be kept to a minimum to maintain the integrity of the hair. But if you are using heat, be sure to use a thermal protector like Martin Redken’s Play It Safe, and be sure to keep the temperature no more than 350 degrees. As hair ages, it can be duller and straighter, so he recommends using smoothing serums, creams and sprays that contain moisturizing ingredients from mid to ends. “When the hair gets straight, it means it isn’t hydrated enough,” Martin explains. “So if you use enough moisture, it will become more hydrated and more manageable. For maximum hold, the hairspray to use in her salon is ColorProof’s AllAround Color Protect Working formula. “It smells like cinnamon so you feel festive and at the same time it holds the hair back but it doesn’t make it stiff or dirty so it’s still mobile and manageable,” he says. When negotiating the shape and length of your hair, remember that gray hair doesn’t need to be cut. “There’s this old-fashioned idea that when you go gray you have to be short and I’m totally against that,” Martin says. “If you have beautiful, healthy long hair, you can absolutely keep it long, but just try doing a little more layering, framing the face.”

Redken Extreme Play Safe Heat Protection and Hair Damage Treatment

ColorProof Hardcore Epic Color Protect Hairspray

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